RIP Paul Bocuse. 1927-2018
I wrote this last year celebrating his 90th birthday. His kindness will never be forgotten.
'Since 1765 the Bocuse family has kept a restaurant at Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or just north of Lyons, France. The earliest customers were boatman. In 1960 Paul Bocuse took over as head chef. By 1967 he had earned his third Michelin star, the recognised award given to the best 18 French restaurants.
Known as 'the emperor', the Castro of cookpots or the Kissinger of cuisine, Paul is larger than life. He is an impressive figure - tall, broad, with a twinkle in his eye and a magnetic personality.
Paul's food is unmistakably traditional but without the normal lashings of butter and cream. He gives top billing to crunchy green beans, spit-roasted chicken and a great leek and potato soup. He has also several signature dishes: truffle soup, pastry-wrapped sea bass and Poularde en Vessie - chicken filled with tiny diced vegetables and cooked in a tightly-sewn pig's bladder. Most first-time diners try at least one of these unforgettable dishes.'
I will always remember your wonderful hospitality in 1985 Paul. And introducing you to tamarillos. Merci!'
Photo: Paul, Jan and dining room manager, Joel Fleury.
